Wednesday 31 March 2010

Lettre d'amour à Tra Vinh


My Guesthouse!

La fin de mon séjour à Tra Vinh approche. Il me reste encore tant de choses à faire ici: revisiter Ao Ba Om; manger du nem nuong encore une fois; finir mon rapport de stage (il faut bien!); faire mes valises; dire au revoir à mes nouveaux amis; et peut-être même une autre soirée de karaoke....

Badass Buddha

Voici quelques images de Tra Vinh...je commence déjà à être nostalgique!

Sunset View from my Office

Ao Ba Om, où j'ai flâné plusieurs après-midis.

Simply Perfection

I'm famous!

Check out this article that I wrote for WUSC! (with some input from colleagues, pictures curtesy of the Gender and Community Department)

Ne me reste plus qu'une semaine a Tra Vinh!

Monday 29 March 2010

La poésie de Hanoi

Les jours continuent de filer à la vitesse de l’éclair ! J’ai profité de mon avant-dernière fin de semaine au Vietnam pour faire un saut à Hanoi, la capitale du Vietnam. Après la débauche de consommation (magasinage et bouffe à l’américaine) à Bangkok la semaine dernière, j’ai affirmé à qui voulait l’entendre que mon weekend à Hanoi serait purement culturel.

Promesse d’ivrogne, hélas. Hanoi est certes la capitale culturelle du Vietnam (tandis qu’Ho Chi Minh ville est plutôt la métropole commerciale), n’empêche qu’on peut y faire beaucoup de magasinage également ! La Cité indigène, où j’ai passé beaucoup de temps, regorge de coins intéressants, autant des attrapes-touristes que des magasins style « Dollar ou Deux », que des boutiques haute gamme.

Vendredi matin, j’ai filé directement de l’aéroport de Hanoi jusqu’au bureau EUMC-CECI. Je savais qu’un accueil chaleureux me serait réservé, et effectivement les filles du bureau m’ont amené déjeuner (c’était également l’anniversaire du chef de la section EUMC-Asie) et ont ensuite organisé une petite visite guidée. J’ai visité le temple de la littérature et le lac Hoan Kiem, accompagnée d’un jeune étudiant qui voulait bien pratiquer son anglais.

Puis, vendredi soir, j’ai soupé en compagnie de quatre autres bénévoles (cinq, si on compte la petite fille de deux des bénévoles) dans un bon petit resto indien. C’était vraiment agréable de rencontrer d’autres Canadiens et d’entendre parler de leurs propres expériences.


Hoan Kiem Lake (The Lake of the Restored Sword)

Samedi matin, je me suis levée tôt pour faire le tour du lac. Mon hôtel était super bien situé (si jamais vous allez à Hanoi, Especen Hotel est un très bon choix) à deux pas de la cathédrale Saint-Joseph et du lac. Je me suis bien amusée à observer les Hanoiens qui faisaient de l’exercice – la plupart très âgés (un des messieurs à qui j’ai parlé en français était âgé de 86 ans), tous en train de faire des « exercices » assez bizarres selon moi, par exemple se frapper la poitrine à répétition…et tout cela autour d’un lac enchanteur. Le lac Hoan Kiem est magique – la preuve, il y a une légende arthurienne qui raconte comment, après une bataille importante, une tortue géante a attrapé l’épée de guerrier vainqueur pour l’apporter au fond du lac….jusqu’à ce que Hanoi ait besoin d’un autre héro. Et devinez quoi ? J’ai même vu une des tortues géantes qui vit dans le lac ! C’est un peu comme si j’avais aperçu le monstre du Loch Ness.


Funeral Tomb of the Gia Rai - or Jarai - people

Ensuite, je me suis dirigée vers le Musée d'ethnologie du Vietnam. C’est un endroit super intéressant, avec beaucoup de photos et d’expositions sur les 54 groupes ethniques du Vietnam. J’ai même eu la chance de voir un spectacle de marionnettes aquatiques ! Une expérience à ne pas manquer.


Water puppets (the puppet handlers control them from behind the bamboo screen)

Puis j’ai mangé à KOTO (« Know One, Teach One »), un resto/école de formation pour les jeunes de la rue. C’est un endroit réputé, Bill Clinton y a mangé par exemple, et je fût très satisfaite de mon repas (du bun cha, mélange de nouilles-porc-légumes marinés).


Au marché de la Cité indigène

L’après-midi, je me suis promenée à travers la Cité indigène ou « Vieux Quartier » de Hanoi. Wow ! Tellement de monde, tellement d’histoire, un mélange de vieux murs (à la Vieux Québec) et de nouveauté. Ouf ! Après deux heures à me sauver des motos enragées, j’ai eu des ampoules au pied.

Heureusement que deux des bénévoles de Hanoi m’ont emmené prendre un café, faire un peu de magasinage, et enfin souper (de l’italien…mmm pizza).

What a great weekend ! I definitely wanted to stay in Hanoi longer, but I`m also happy to be back “home” in Tra Vinh. Less than 2 weeks left and there is still so much to do!

Sunday 28 March 2010

Lost in Translation

I have been relying on Google Translate a lot lately, since I try to have bilingual Vietnamese-English slides for my English club. Ms. Condom always has to review my slides, though, because Google Translate, while a mighty handy tool, is far from perfect.

Consider this translation of the TVU website's article on International Women's Day:

School DHTV honored to welcome her Son Thi Anh Hong - Deputy Chairman of Tra Vinh, Nguyen Thi Hiep - Chairman of the Tra Vinh Women's Union, representatives of the Departments and enterprises; on the school has DHTV MA. Nguyen Tien Dung - Vice Rector with your teachers, volunteers, the youth union members with you to attend.

During the workshop, your delegates and the students were listening to Mr. Nguyen Thi Hiep review 100-year tradition celebrated on International Women's Day in 1970 and the uprising of Hai Ba Trung the same time as high if role and responsibilities of women in modern society, traditional review magnanimous, indomitable spirit, resilience against foreign invasion of the female national hero of Vietnam, as well as the loss of the sacrifice the mother, the sister, the children in wartime and in peacetime for the children of students, youth union members understand the role of women in society, arouse the children's gratitude for Ms. Vietnam heroic mother, and her, and she ... from which the children have the engine rose to strive in learning and labor

This is only slightly more understandable if you have been working at TVU for a while. So "School DHTV"
actually means "Tra Vinh University = đại học Tra Vinh = DHTV". Mr. Dung (pronounced like "Yoon") is our Vice-Rector who likes to *encourage* me to drink 100%. And Hai Ba Trung are the two Vietnamese sisters who defeated the Chinese invaders about a thousand years ago (I think I might have mentioned them before).

On a related topic, I have recently begun to feel more comfortable "speaking" Vietnamese - i.e. I can ask "Where is the bathroom?" and *try* to negociate taxi prices in Vietnamese. "What a pity", as my British-English-trained Vietnamese colleagues would say, that I am leaving Vietnam in 12 days! just as I am starting to feel a little less like a fish out of water!

Monday 22 March 2010

Deux nuits à Bangkok

Je reviens d'une fin de semaine de folie à Bangkok! Bankok is crazy, yes indeed. Il y a tellement de monde, de chaleur, de bruit...mais en même temps c'est un oasis pour les moines vêtus d'orange. Tant de contradictions!

Notre vol de HCMC à Bangkok s'est très bien déroulé. Nous sommes arrivés vers 19h30 vendredi soir avec très peu de problèmes (j'ai dû abandonner mon couteau suisse à l'aéroport et j'ai eu un moment d'inquiétude lorsque l'agent aux contrôles de passeport a décidé de s'informer auprès de son superviseur si mon visa vietnamien était valide...mais sinon tout a bien été!). Nous avons pris un taxi jusqu'à l'auberge de jeunesse, avons posé nos valises et ensuite avons pris le métro jusqu'au marché de nuit. Premier choc: à tous les 3 pas, on se fait offrir des services sexuels à la carte! Hmmm...definitely not in Tra Vinh anymore!

Night life outside Hua Lampong metro station

L'objectif principal de notre fin de semaine était de faire un peu de magasinage et de bien manger. Je peux dire que ce fut mission réussie! Nous avons effectivement passé la journée de samedi au marché Chatuchak, une véritable Mecque du magasinage. C'est si immense, on dit qu'il peut contenir 200 000 personnes à la fois! Il faisait très chaud et humide, donc nous étions obligées d'arrêter aux deux heures pour manger de la crème glacée...ah que ce fut pénible. (;

Saturday night (after a nap), we went out for supper and found a great little place to eat hot soup, seafood hot pot, crab and spring rolls. We ended up at the night market again and agreed that we definitely contributed to Thailand's economy that day.

Sunday morning we slept in a little so only had a few hours to tour Wat Po. This wat is famous for its HUGE reclining Buddha. Frankly I wondered if the Buddha measured the length of Chatuchak Market....it's a distinct possibility.

Giant gold Buddha at Wat Po



Unfortunately we didn't have enough time to tour the Grand Palace...maybe next time? We had to catch a plane and the airport was waaaay out of the city (we ended up spending a fortune on taxis...again I felt that the good people of Bangkok were probably sad to see us, and our wallets, go). The rest of the journey went fine, although we took a sketchy unmarked taxi from the airport to Ben Thanh market in HCMC. Ah well, part of the joys of travelling through South-East Asia is, you never know where you will end up, and whether your money is fuelling the drug industry, but generally (in my experience) you get home before midnight!

With that I am now planning my next weekend in Hanoi. Should be another awesome trip!

Sunday 14 March 2010

Wedding Belles

It's wedding season in Vietnam! And I have been lucky enough to be invited to both a wedding and an engagement party. Monday we were invited to a wedding (one of the TVU professors was getting married) and today, Sunday, we headed out to one of the districts to an engagement party. The bride-to-be actually wore a white wedding dress and the house was beautifully decorated, so it felt just like Monday's wedding.

La maison de la fiancée, tout joliment décorée

Le party a débuté vers 9h le matin et nous sommes restés environ deux heures, à manger, boire et complimenter la fiancée et son chum sur leur belle apparence. Un très beau couple! Nous avons pris plusieurs photos de la maison de la fiancée. Puisqu'il y a un étang autour de la maison, deux personnes ont également fait un petit tour de bateau.

 
Pour sauter du coq à l'âne, samedi matin, j'ai re-visité la pagode Khmer qui est située à côté du pond Ba Om. C'est toujours un lieu qui m'inspire et me fascine. Les moines sont habituellement des jeunes garçons âgés entre 15 et 25 ans, qui quittent la vie monastique une fois qu'ils ont complété leur éducation, mais il y en a qui sont moines toute leur vie et sont plus âgés.


Monk laundry out to dry, pagoda by Ao Ba Om

Friday 12 March 2010

English Club

Wednesday was the first meeting of the English club that I am coordinating. At last! I was expecting to start about a month ago, but several things delayed the start of the club (most importantly, the fact that students were given two or three weeks off for Tet holidays...). The silver lining in all this is that I had lots of time to prepare activities for the students, and to recruit English students to help me out.

There are 43 students signed up, all from the Khmer culture class. The main goal of this club is to give Khmer students an opportunity to practise their English, and to boost their confidence in a third language (after Vietnamese and Khmer). Unfortunately, since I am only here for another month, I don't know how much I will be able to help these students...but it's a start.

As with many universities, TVU is suffering from a lack of classroom space. We were given a classroom in Campus III, which is all right (none of the campuses are very far from each other). I even have access to a projector, so I can use PowerPoint presentations. Wednesday night, we started with introductions (my name is...I have # brothers and sisters...I want to learn English because...and the most difficult one, my dream job would be...). I divided the group into 4 or 5 smaller groups so they could all have the opportunity to practise presenting themselves. Then we moved on to "2 truths and a lie" which turned out to be more difficult than I had anticipated. Most students were okay with composing two true sentences (such as "My name is..." "I have # number of brothers and sisters..." Two popular sentences!!) but coming up with an untrue sentence was more challenging.

I wanted to schedule two meetings per week, but tonight's meeting has just been cancelled (the students have an exam...how come I always find out about these things at the last minute?). Then I will be traveling the next two Fridays, so I'll only be able to hold meetings on Wednesdays. We'll probably only have four or five meetings before the end of my internship at TVU, which I know is not enough...but hopefully, someone (such as the English majors who have been helping me) can continue coordinating meetings. Being able to speak and understand English is an important skill if these students want to find higher-paying "white collar" jobs. It is especially important to promote English speaking skills for Khmer girls who seem to have fewer opportunities. To paraphrase a report I read recently (entitled "Equal opportunities and youth employment"): Gender discrimination can be subtle. Girls' occupations are often segregated from boys' occupations. This is known as gender tracking. One solution is to "address the bias that limits them [girls] to traditional skills, and train them in nontraditional sectors like welding, carpentry, plumbing, child care services, photography, personal services, and computer languages, rather than in sewing, weaving, embroidery or crafts".

Wednesday 10 March 2010

Visite de EUMC

Aujourd'hui nous avons eu la visite d'une délégation de EUMC (une personne de Ottawa, une personne du bureau a Hanoi, et 2 personnes du Népal). J'ai recu un très beau cadeau - des gravol, du Purell et deux boites de biscuits a l'érable!!

Merci maman !

Monday 8 March 2010

International Women`s Day

HAPPY WOMEN`S DAY!

I am pleased to report that International Women`s Day at TVU went off with only minor (okay, major) technical glitches. We were told on Wednesday that our event was being moved from Hall 1 to Hall C, which turned out to be a brand new building tucked away at the far end of campus. I was a little worried that the building would be done on time - the construction crew was still putting up windows on Saturday - but I shouldn't have been. Saturday afternoon, we (the IWD planning committee) organized a run-through of the gender equality game, went to the market for last-minute supplies, and then we were up until 11 pm on Saturday night, to finish decorating the hall and wrapping the prizes for the cooking competition and fashion show. Everyone pitched in to help, the other volunteers even postponed their karaoke night to come help blow balloons and cut paper flowers to decorate the stage. What an awesome gang!

Stage in Hall C. Setting it up was a joint effort!


Sunday morning dawned bright and sunny. I was a little late setting up (technical difficulty #1: balancing a big red bucket on the back of a bicycle) so the cooking competition was well underway by the time we had set up the gender equality game (around 7.30 am). The game - a relay race where the participants had to tie a helmet around their bellies and put on a maternity dress, thus simulating pregnancy and hopefully sparking some meaningful reflections about women's reproductive roles... - was a lot of fun, if I do say so myself. Unfortunately, we didn't have many participants - the Vietnamese like to do things en masse, but clearly the masses were congregating around the cooking area - but it turned out to be okay. It made for some pretty funny pictures, anyways!

Then it was off to the hall, where we had a jam-packed schedule of Khmer dancing, speeches, presentations, panel discussions, "ethnic minorities" diversity fashion show, and the all-important prizes. Technical glitch #2: we were informed a few days before that we would have a town-wide blackout on Sunday. Luckily someone managed to secure a generator. Unluckily, the generator power was rather intermittent, so the microphones only worked half the time. We also didn't have the fans going, so the room heated up pretty quickly. At the same time, the students got creative and we had music blasting from a cellphone into a microphone for the fashion show. One of our fabulous Masters of Ceremonies entertained us with some impromptu a capella singing, and we probably had about 200 students in attendance. All in all, a good showing.


TVU students posing after performing a Khmer classical dance

After all that hard work, our Vice-Rector treated us to a nice lunch and we all went home for a nap. Then we went to see the kites again, went out for supper to celebrate a colleague's birthday, and ended up....at the karaoke hall. A perfect ending to a very full weekend.  


Flying kites, a traditional thing to do in the dry season.

Friday 5 March 2010

Let's go fly a kite

With tuppence for paper and strings
You can have your own set of wings
With your feet on the ground
You`re a bird in flight
With your fist holding tight
To the string of your kite

Oh, oh, oh! Let's go fly a kite
Up to the highest hights
Let's go fly a kite and send it soaring
Up through the atmosphere
Up where the air is clear
Oh, let's go fly a kite!      -From the Mary Poppins soundtrack

Jeudi soir, je suis allée faire un tour à l'extérieur de la ville pour aller voir les cerf-volants. Ce temps-ci de l'année est idéal pour les cerf-volants (il ne fait pas super chaud et ce n'est pas la saison des pluies), et donc c'est une tradition annuelle...pendant environ un mois après Têt, m'a-t-on-dit. C'était vraiment beau à voir, toutes les familles avec leurs cerf-volants...ça m'a rappelé le Festival des mongolfières à Gatineau (fallait juste remplacer le bouchon de circulation automobile par un bouchon de circulation formé de motos).

Wednesday 3 March 2010

Blackout

In general, I've been quite impressed with electricity, Internet and audio-visual resources at TVU. They have Wi-Fi (although it's never worked when I've tried to lug my laptop) and projectors, and even cameras (we are going to have some teachers make a little documentary for International Women`s Day). However, ever so often, we have a day of power outtages...like today! Luckily, it's just TVU Campus 1, so Internet is working fine at Campus 2 where I live. I am working, or trying to, from home today, although mostly my "work" for today involves going shopping for supplies for our gender equality game on Sunday.

Really, I don`t know what I would have done without my daily Internet (email, Facebook, blogs) fix. How do the other students, the ones doing an internship in the remote parts of Ghana, Malawi and Nepal, deal with what I imagine is very poor and sporadic Internet connections? At home in Canada, I don't mind spending a few days without checking emails, but when you're in another country it seems so much more important to keep in touch with friends and family.

In other news, the English club has been delayed...again. It's mostly because of red tape!! Apparently we did not get approval from the Finances office (why do we need financial support for an English club, you ask? good question. I have no idea.) so cannot proceed until things are cleared up. It's a shame because I was all ready to go yesterday (had even made photocopies and had my PowerPoint presentation double- and triple-checked by my three colleagues), and about an hour and a half before my first meeting with students was supposed to start, I was informed that we had to cancel the meeting. Ah well, there's not much I can do (and complaining doesn't do much) but wait. Instead, I had an ice cream cone and a chat with one of the English students...very sweet girl. We had an interesting conversation on beauty...here in Vietnam, you are considered beautiful if you have white skin.

Tuesday 2 March 2010

La légende de Ao Ba Om; ou, Deux héroines

Depuis que je suis au Vietnam, deux récits qui parlent des rapports homme-femme m’ont marquée. D’abord, un tout petit peu d’histoire : le Vietnam a été sous occupation chinoise pendant 1000 ans environ. Il y a très longtemps, on raconte que deux femmes – Hai Ba Trung, ou les deux sœurs Trung – ont mené une guerre contre les Chinois et ont réussi à reprendre le contrôle du Vietnam pendant trois ans. Aujourd’hui il y a des rues et des statues à la mémoire des deux héroïnes.


L’autre histoire qui m’a touchée est une légende propre à Tra Vinh. On raconte que le petit étang carré qui est situé à quelques kilomètres de la ville (qui se nomme Ao Ba Om, ou l’étang de Madame Om) est le résultat d’une chicane entre les hommes et les femmes. Il était une fois, les hommes et les femmes du village voulaient s’épouser, mais personne ne voulait poser LA question aux autres à cause du cout des noces. Au même moment, il y a eu une sécheresse et on commençait à manquer d’eau. C’est alors que la mère Soc a eu une idée saugrenue : pour faire d’une pierre deux coups, les hommes et les femmes devaient participer à un concours de ‘creusage’ d’étang. Le concours devait débuter à la tombée de la nuit et terminer à l’aube. Les perdants seraient obligés de demander les gagnants en mariage…et de payer les dépenses des noces.

Madame Om, astucieuse, a commencé à saouler les hommes dès le coucher de soleil. À minuit, elle a accroché une lanterne tout en haut d’un arbre. Les hommes ont pensé que c’était l’étoile du matin et sont allés se coucher (Les femmes ont gagné le concours, bien sur.) Depuis ce jour, les hommes doivent demander les femmes en mariage et en assumer les frais.

J’en retire quelques idées de ces légendes. D’abord, les hommes au Vietnam aiment bien boire! Deuxièmement, les femmes sont la moitié du monde, et il y a beaucoup de respect pour les femmes ici. Par contre, il reste que le Vietnam est une société patriarcale, aujourd’hui, et les femmes provenant des minorités ethniques demeurent en bas de l’échelle, niveau qualité de vie et revenus…